Ode to Le Canal de Nivernais - Simone

Today we say good bye to our boat "Magnifique"
For being our home for the past two weeks
Thank you.
To our captain Bruce and our co-captain Ray
Who navigated through locks, tunnels, and narrow waterways
Thank you.
To our technological whiz and blog master Gerry
Who bailed us out of our computer woes constantly
Thank you.
To our fastidious accountant and the best rope coiler ever Barry
And to his wife Carolyn who knotted them back so gingerly
Thank you.
And from me, your scullery maid down below
Whose meals you ate with such gusto
Thank you.

Un Grande Merci to you Simone for Cheerfully and Expertly Feeding the Troops and keeping us on top of the sometimes strange and confusing French Customs and the Mysterious Nuances of the French Language.  MERCI from the well-fed and contented Crew of the Magnifique 511!!!

Our Last Lock - Ecluse Laroche - Migennes - 16 Sept 2016

Our last lock on day 14 after mastering 143  locks in 264 km was the most dramatic of all.  Écluse Laroche had started out as 2 locks: #114 & #115 and had been combined into one.  The result was an impressive wall of 5.5 metres (about 18 feet) - much deeper than the usual 2 meters we had dealt with up to this point.  One issue that faced us immediately was in Barry's domain at the bow and Ray's at the stern:  'How in the heck are we going to throw the rope that far up?'  Well the answer came quickly in the form of a grappling hook on the end of a long rope being dangled by the lock keeper down to the bow.  The eclusier quickly pulled our coil of rope to the bollard 5.5 metres up and threw the end to Barry.  He repeated this for Ray in the stern.  The lock began to fill and up we went.

Ecluse LaRoche - Migennes - Last Ecluse

Barry is thinking:  'Oh My!  Now What??'

Barry attaching the rope to the hook.

Ray at the stern.

Our Rookie Couple - advanced to Experienced Lock Handlers

As we rise the world in Migennes seems strange...

It is just an old Faucet they apparently used to fill the lock - or shower.

Our Eclusier at Lock Laroche

Our Canadian Ambassador - Carolyn - Gerry

We set off on our voyage equipped with Canadian chocolates (Purdy's, Airport Nougat, Canadian Caramel & Flags) Canadian pins (courtesy of Barry & Carolyn and our local political representatives) and mounted Canadian Flags at the bow and stern of our Magnifique 511.  The plan was to pave our way smoothly through the locks/écluses with our little tokens of Canadian goodwill.

We were surprised that nobody else did this but the éclusiers seemed to really appreciate our little gifts.  Perhaps it was the gracious presentation.  Carolyn cheerfully presented each lock keeper with a Canadian pin and a couple of treats.  She flashed her seductively, endearing Canadian smile with each presentation.
If they seemed confused as to our country of origin we just stated emphatically: "Celine Dion" and they fell over with raptures of understanding!  Ah Canadiane!!  Celine Dione!! Oui!

The Wedding - Tannay - 11 Sept 2016

We took a taxi into town to the restaurant.  We were dropped next to the Town Centre and since we were half an hour early we explored.  Within minutes we realized we had fallen into one of the most festive occasions of the season:  several cars whizzed around the corner with horns blaring. People who had been milling about now had cameras at the ready and were focused on the cars.  A bridal party appeared and gathered in the plaza.  Strangely absent were the Bride and Groom! 

After a period of about 5 minutes the bride appeared (after a smoke break we realized - everyone smokes over here!) in the plaza for photos and well-wishes.  She seemed very happy but very 'experienced' for a bride in white.  

Our Motley Crew observed the joyful crowd.

Simone counting the fish in a pond with a little wedding attendee just outside our restaurant.

 Ray wants this car!!!
And Barry - Note the Barak Burger Van - we saw a few along the canal.

Dinner Time at 7:00 - we appeared at 6:55 and were chastised by the waitress!
She was not ready for us but she seated us anyway.

Barry and Carolyn had Beef Simone and Gerry had Andoulette Sausage (Very Rich Local Sausage)

Ray had Duck - Bruce had Trout - all was great but the beef (tough)!
Apparently they do not know how to cut beef properly.

Size Matters...

Wine Tour - Cave

We toured a Wine Cave - which was in a Cave in Tannay (Les Caves Tannaysiennes)

We purchased wine of course - very fine wine (Melon - blanc - and a red) which we enjoyed for the rest of our time in France!  

Auxerre - Carolyn

We had a bit of fun following another bateau this morning.  It was crewed by a merry band of 4 from Macau, who hadn't quite mastered how to handle it, or understood canal courtesy.  After zig-zagging along, they had trouble tying up, but solved the problem by steering pointy end to shore, sending a man out, throwing a rope for him to pull the stern alongside and then rush away to take photos of this accomplishment.  An impatient crew approaching us took it upon themselves to operate the lock themselves, rather than waiting until the lock keeper returned from lunch.  To our consternation, the Macau crew disembarked with the engine running, to check it out and returned to ask us if we wanted to risk this illegal and dangerous act with them.  Tied to a large shady tree, which had sacrificed a few overhanging boughs to our arrival, we declined to join them, remaining to enjoy yet another fabulous feast on the deck.  We managed to ease out before the Macau boat, who were never seen again.  Don't know if they took a wrong channel, had a misadventure or turned back.  

The Macau Motley Mayhem in an écluse.

By the time we cruised into Auxerre mid afternoon, we were feeling ready to see the sights of this busy old port city.

Saint Etienne Cathedrale et nos catholiques à Auxerre 

High end purse shopping enticed Simone and Gerry to wind their way to the cobbled hilltop shops.  Ray and I followed to keep them safe, while Barry napped and our stalwart Captain attended to business.

Simone in Sacade, a Purse Shop in Auxerre, diligently Inspecting a coveted Longchamps Bag.  

Purchases were made!

In the morning, Barry and I followed a walking tour map (in English), which took us to the Abbeye St. Germain and Cathedral St. Etienne, as well as many other ancient and stunning monuments.  Brass markers set in the paths were very helpful and our numbered guide helped us to understand what we were seeing.  A fascinating day, which culminated, as usual with Happy Hour, which included a welcome rain shower.

Brass Markers set in the Path

Auxierre Town Centre

Took the free 12 person community bus in the morning up to the market; returned to find Barry and the Captain were ready to set out for Migennes.

Saturday Market in Auxierre - Clothing and Food Market

Butcher:  Note the heads on the chickens!








Simone was very impressed by the Food Market but we no longer needed to buy food - we had one more day left onboard.

Auxierre at Night - Gerry

Ray took this amazing picture (above) from the Foot Bridge near our mooring in Auxierre.  The fountains and some surrounding blocks were illuminated by changing colors.
He has a cell phone with a 'night mode' - missing from my top-of-the-line iPhone 6s!

 Abbeye St. Germain (below) and Cathedral St. Etienne (above) illuminated. Taken from the Foot Bridge over the Yonne River.

Our Moon Queen - Simone

Almost Full Moon across the Yonne River from our mooring

Our Cuisine - Gerry

Simone is spoiling us!  we have had some fabulous dinners:  cassoulet (a la Raymond), hamburger soup, lardon in potatoes with a delectable cheese sauce (tattiflette), hamburgers, croissant sandwiches with ancienne tomatoes (very flavorful), cheese omlettes, prawns with pasta,  caesar salad with toasted croutons, Heated Baguette stuffed with cream cheese mixed with sun dried tomatoes and herbs. Carolyn and Barry made veal scallopine, Bruce made delicious halibut.  We have had sausages (thin delicately flavoured long sausages) twice and tonight we had pomme frites with the sausages!  She has made homemade bread and today the unmistakable fragrance of cinnamon led us to the table to find cinnamon buns!
WE ARE IN FOODIE HEAVEN!!!

Pasta a la Raymond

Salad et Bread

THE "CINNAMON GIRL" and her buns

Caesar Salad Et Shrimp Penne PLUS HOME MADE BREAD

Bruce at the BBQ cooking Sausages

Cassoulet Dinner Prepared by Simone et Ray

Of course we can't forget the French Onion Soup!

L'Art des Écluses - Gerry

     Art obviously comes in many forms.  We have run into several modes of expression in the canals.

The BOLLARDS that we tie up to are an unusual but blank canvas to the people who spend their time near them.  The stretch of canal on the Nivernais going up to the Etang du Baie hosts 36 locks in about  68 km.  After the Etang du Baie we went down via what is known as the Sardy Staircase from Port Brûlé to Sardy-les-Epiry.  17 écluses  in 4 km and every one uniquely painted and decorated.  In the summer artists inhabit this stretch and sell their pieces to the 'captive' boaters.  Unfortunately the season had ended when we arrived so we did not see much but the bollards, painted houses and the odd sculpture.  Some were very odd!

     I wondered how they could sell anything because the time spent in the locks was very short.  I was literally running to the next lock to catch the ropes and ran in to one place to check out the unmanned pottery store and had time to capture two pictures.  No time to find the owner or select a piece before the boat had to be boarded again.   We found out how they do it:  they hold you 'captive' in the lock until you make a purchase!  One fellow did it to us - he kept us in a lock while he played his mandolin- like instrument.

  

Painted Bollards:

Éclusière and her daughter (we think because they looked alike) or a 'friend' Note the painted bridge.

Sculpuure

Simple Colorful Painting

Chair Sculpture

Pottery for sale in an éclusier.